Rockery plants only 65p each.

We also usually have a limited selection in larger pans or pots at £1.42 each. 

Not sure what an Alpine or Rockery plant is? See explanation at end of list.

We grow many varieties of rockery plants in small, successive batches; this means that the range we have on sale is constantly changing as one variety sells out to be replaced by another. 

The foliage of a Rockery plant can be just as important as its flowers in achieving a harmonious planting.

Written descriptions can be misleading - Nothing beats coming for a look!

Here is a list of some of the varieties of Alpine and Rockery plants we grow (not all will be ready at any one time).

ACAENA.

Pink/red flowers, creeping habit, ideal for cracks in paving or walls.

ACHILLEA.

Yellow or white varieties, both with grey, tufted foliage.

ALYSSUM.

Gold or lemon-yellow.

ANACYCLUS. 

Pink-backed, white daisy with yellow eye.

ANTENNARIA.

Pink or white, low foliage.

ARABIS. 

White or pink, several varieties.

ARENARIA.

 White, cascading trumpets; repeat flowering the same season.

ARMERIA. 

Pink or white varieties.

ASTER ALPINUS. 

Mixed colours, usually pink, white or lilac.

AUBRIETIA. 

Blue, purple, red/purple or mixed colours. 

You may find that you have to apply small quantities 

of lime every year to successfully grow Aubrietia in this district.

CAMPANULA. 

Blue or white, several varieties.

CERASTIUM (SNOW IN SUMMER). 

Masses of white flowers on silvery-foliage. Warning - even the slower growing varieties are rampant and could choke neighbouring plants if left unchecked.

CHAENORRHINUM. 

Purple flowers; not for the most exposed positions.

COTULA. 

Small, golden flowers held well above silvery-green foliage.

CRASSULA. 

White flowers. The spreading clumps grow very close to the ground or over rocks.

DIANTHUS (DWARF PINKS). 

White, pink, 

red or mixed colours. 

Spreading, upright growth.

DIANTHUS DELTOIDES. 

Masses of small, single flowers. White, pink, red/purple or mixed colours. Lax growth; good for cascading over walls. Cut back after flowering to encourage new base shoots.

ERIGERON. 

White/pink, daisy-like flowers.

ERINUS. 

Purple flowers. Without adequate drainage, Erinus can be short-lived.

ERYSIMUM. 

Bright-yellow flowers on a spreading carpet of foliage.

FRANKINEA. 

Pale-pink flowers on Thyme-like foliage.

GERANIUM (DWARF CRANESBILL). 

White or pink.

GYPSOPHILA. 

White or pink with cascading habit.

HEBE. 

Bright-blue flowers.

HELIANTHEMUM (ROCK ROSE). 

White, yellow, pink, orange or mixed colours.

JASIONE. 

Pale-blue, Scabious-like (pincushion) flowers.

LEONTOPODIUM. 

Silvery-white flower heads.

LYCHNIS. 

Pink flowers held well above fine foliage.

LYSIMACHIA. 

Bright-yellow flowers. 

Warning - must be kept in check to prevent it taking over; 

don't be afraid to cut well back after flowering.

MAZUS. 

White-flowered form, prefers a well-drained, shady spot.

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. 

Yellow flowers, pale-green, succulent-like foliage. The plants need to be in a sunny position to flower well. (Not to be confused with ordinary Mesembryanthemums which are killed by frost).

MIMULUS. 

Yellow, orange or red.

PAPAVER (ALPINE POPPY). 

Orange or mixed colours.

PARAHEBE. 

Lilac-purple flowers (long flowering period).

PHLOX (ALPINE). 

White, pink, purple or lilac. Several varieties.

POLYGONUM. 

Spreading growth, pink flowers.

POTENTILLA. 

Yellow flowers, vigorous growth.

PRATIA. 

White, pale-blue or deep-lavender-blue varieties. All have very low, creeping habits.

ROULIA. 

Yellow flowers, a sunny position is essential.

SAPONARIA. 

Bright-pink flowers, trailing habit. This old favourite is hard to beat; cut well back after flowering and it flowers again the same year (weather permitting). For best results grow in a sunny position.

SAXIFRAGA (ENCRUSTED). 

White flowers, small, tight foliage.

SAXIFRAGA (MOSSY). 

White, pink or red. Several varieties.

SEDUM. 

Shades of pink and yellow. 

Many varieties with different 

leaf forms and colours.

SEMPERVIVIUM. 

Pink flowers, succulent/cactus-like foliage. They need to be established in order to flower.

SILENE. 

White or pink.

SISYRINCHIUM 

Yellow, Iris-like flowers held above small, sword-like foliage.

THYMUS. 

White, pink or purple. Several varieties.

VERONICA. 

Blue or purple, plenty of flowers. Dense growth.

Heathers, low-growing shrubs, miniature conifers, miniature roses and dwarf herbaceous plants are also suitable for inclusion in a Rockery. As a general guide, the larger the Rockery, the larger the plant you can include.

ROCKERY TIPS:

Inspect your sink gardens and rockeries regularly; the stronger-growing varieties or ones which particularly like their situation will always attempt to swamp their neighbours. Keep these in check by clipping back with secateurs (preferably after flowering). Cut back on the spread, not the whole plant.

Some plants e.g. Aubrietia, Dianthus and Phlox like lime. Most heathers hate lime; on a sloping Rockery plant the lime haters at the top so that lime applied to lime-loving varieties can't be washed down to them by rain.

ALPINE OR ROCKERY PLANT?

Alpines are Rockery plants, but not all Rockery plants are Alpines:

  Rockery plants are any low-growing plants suitable for growing in a Rockery. They can also be used for growing in low borders or edging a larger border.

  Most garden rockeries are not built up from layers of stone, grit, sand and specially-prepared, gritty compost.

  In practice they are based on a flat area, mound or banking of existing soil into which stones and rocks have been inserted to give the outwards appearance of a true rockery.

  As most of the gardens in our area have a heavy, clay-based soil that tends to be very wet and the opposite of free draining in winter, we grow more rockery plants than alpines.

  If you are not sure if a plant is suitable for the location where you would like to plant it, always ask before purchasing.

If you want plants for a wall, check out your wall first:

  Is it a cavity wall with a soil trough in the top? If so how deep is the trough?

  Is the wall built on a concrete base or can roots work their way down through the stones of the wall into the subsoil?

  Is the wall in sun or shade for most of the day?

  How exposed is your location (our winters can be harder on plants than in mountainous areas where they are covered by a protective blanket of snow all winter).

  Is your garden situated on the hills e.g. Emley Moor or down near the winter "heat-bubbles" found near Huddersfield Town and Wakefield City centres.

  These are some of the factors taken into account when a plant grower helps you to make your selection.