Vegetable Bedding

 

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We grow a selection of ready-to-plant vegetable plants and seedlings

YEAR 2009

We grow a selection of ready-to-plant vegetable plants and seedlings. 

  All are grown in multi-cell packs or individual pots to ensure minimal root disturbance when planting out (except for Leeks and F1 hybrid Onions - their fleshy roots tease apart easily).

  They are all grown in soil-less compost to prevent diseases such as club root being transmitted (we do not have club root on the nursery because we always grow our brassica (cabbage family) plantlets in new, soil-less compost).

  Many of the names of the varieties we grow may be unknown to you. This is because we mainly use market growers' varieties. These tend to give good reliable crops that will stand well when mature (they don't have to be picked all at once).

  You will notice an absence of root vegetables; this is because they do not transplant easily. Even minor damage to the main taproot can affect the crop. They are better sown directly into the garden, thinning out (discarding) unwanted seedlings.

  Some vegetables can be poisonous if eaten raw (e.g. runner or climbing French beans, etc.), never eat vegetables or vegetable plants raw (uncooked) unless you are certain that it is safe to do so. See the Health and Safety Notice on the Information page.

AT ONLY 94p FOR A TEN PLANT PACK:

BROCCOLI (SPROUTING). 

White or purple varieties. Plant out in late summer for winter/spring cropping.

BROCCOLI (HEADING). 

BROCCOLI (HEADING) These winter cauliflowers 

actually crop in spring. 

Plant out in late summer.

 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS Plant out in early summer. 

We grow several varieties 

to spread the planting 

and cropping times.

 

CABBAGE (SUMMER). 

We grow successive batches of both conical and ball-head varieties, available from late spring onwards.

CABBAGE (SAVOY). 

CABBAGE (SAVOY)

Winter cabbages with 

crinkled outer-leaves. 

Plant out in the later summer months.

 

CABBAGE (RED). 

Not many gardeners still grow red cabbage for pickling, but have you tried it cooked in the same way as green cabbage? It looks really revolting on the plate, but many people agree that the flavour is excellent. Available late spring/early summer onwards.

CABBAGE (SPRING). 

We grow both the traditional pointed and the new F1 hybrid, ball varieties. Plant out in the late-summer months.

CALABRESE (GREEN SPROUTING BROCCOLI). 

CALABRESE (GREEN SPROUTING BROCCOLI) F1 hybrid varieties only. 

Do not throw them onto 

the compost heap after 

cutting the heads, 

these improved varieties will shoot and crop again. Calabrese are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts have ended.

CAULIFLOWER. 

The most temperamental of the Brassica (cabbage) family. It is essential to keep watered in dry weather. If you have repeatedly failed with them in the past your land may not suit their requirements, try growing something else. Available from late spring onwards.

CELERY. 

They are not plants for dry gardens or where you can't keep them watered in hot, dry weather. Available from late spring onwards.

  Self-blanching variety. They do not need to be earthed-up or grown in a trench.

LETTUCE. 

We grow successive batches of lettuce plants throughout the summer. Cos or heading, green or red leafed.

AT ONLY 94p FOR A SIX PLANT PACK:

CLIMBING FRENCH BEANS. 

Smaller pods than runner beans, this variety has novel, red and tan, striped pods if left to ripen. They are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).

RUNNER BEANS. 

RUNNER BEANS

 

Large-podded, heavy-cropping varieties. Some people grow them just for the beauty of their scarlet flowers. They are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).

CHINESE CABBAGE F1 Hybrid YUKI.

CHINESE CABBAGE F1 Hybrid YUKIWith crisp, barrel shaped heads F1 Hybrid Yuki is a great improvement on the old varieties of Chinese cabbage. 

 

Slow to bolt and possessing natural disease resistance these high yielding Chinese cabbages are easy to grow. (Available Late May onwards).

Successive plantings can be used to produce heads for summer and autumn cropping. The heads mature about 60 days after planting.

 

SWEET CORN. 

Plant out after frosts have ended. Do not plant in rows, plant in a square block instead. This tends to ensure better pollination (a prevailing wind across a row could blow all the pollen away before any potential cobs could be pollinated).

AT ONLY £1.56 FOR A SIX PLANT PACK:

ALPINE STRAWBERRY PLANTS. 

ALPINE STRAWBERRY They produce sweet, small-sized fruit on 

mainly runner-less plants. 

Ideal for sun or light shade, 

they grow well in patio pots, 

but don't expect to pick too many yourselves if you have children (of any age).

 

AT ONLY 94p FOR A TWENTY PLANT PACK:

LEEK. 

LEEK We grow several varieties 

for late summer, autumn 

and winter cropping. 

Available late spring/early summer onwards.

 

  You don't have to dig a trench for leeks. Use a dibber to make a 15cm (6 inches) deep hole. 

  Lower into the hole - holding onto the top of the plant - and crumble a little soil into the hole.

  Gently joggle the plant until you are sure that it is firmly held and that the tops of the leaves still protrude from the hole (water in).

ONION (F1 HYBRIDS ONLY). 

ONION (F1 HYBRIDS ONLY) Not huge show onions, 

just medium-sized, 

market varieties. 

Fast growing, uniform and should store well. 

They are often found to be more suitable for kitchen use.

AT ONLY 55p EACH:

PEPPERS. 

PEPPERS The variety we grow turns red when ripe; 

if you want green peppers 

just pick them before they ripen. 

Must be grown in a greenhouse or on a deep windowsill 

(not a plant for outdoors in this district). Available late May onwards.

TOMATO PLANTS. 

TOMATO PLANTS We grow several varieties - indoor and outdoor 

(don't plant outside before the beginning of June), 

salad, cherry or beef types 

(we also grow yellow tomatoes).

 

AT ONLY 94p EACH:

COURGETTE. Improved F1 hybrid varieties. 

If you leave any unpicked they will grow to the size of a marrow. The plants can only carry so much crop at once so keep up to picking, even if you have to give them away or put them on the compost heap. They are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).

CUCUMBER (OUTDOOR VARIETIES). 

CUCUMBER (OUTDOOR VARIETIES) We grow a few plants for those who prefer 

short, prickly-skinned fruit or 

want Gherkin varieties for pickling. 

They are frost-tender so don't plant out until 

all spring frosts have ended (early June).

MARROWS. 

Large, green variety. Very heavy cropper. They are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).

MELON. 

For greenhouses and well-built, cold frames. They are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).

PUMPKIN. 

Always popular with the children, see who can grow the largest (use a high nitrogen feed not a tomato fertiliser). They are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).

AT ONLY £1.56 EACH:

F1 HYBRID (ALL FEMALE) GREENHOUSE CUCUMBERS.

F1 HYBRID (ALL FEMALE) GREENHOUSE CUCUMBERS.

 

 

  Unlike the other members of their family (e.g. melons, courgettes, pumpkins and marrows), cucumbers should not be pollinated.

  Cucumbers will make fruit whether pollinated or not.

  If they are pollinated and set seed the result will be bitter-tasting fruits.

  The old varieties such as Telegraph produce both male and female flowers and you have to remove the male flowers to prevent pollination.

  All the varieties we sell are all-female and should not throw any male flowers even when stressed (as can happen with some varieties).

  Cucumbers must be kept in active growth at all times, they cannot stand to be checked by cold. If they stop growing they are likely to fail.

  Our varieties are low temperature tolerant, but that doesn't mean you should let the temperature drop below 10c (50f).

 

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