

We grow a selection of ready-to-plant vegetable plants and seedlings.
All are grown in multi-cell packs or individual pots to ensure minimal
root disturbance when planting out (except for Leeks and F1 hybrid Onions
- their fleshy roots tease apart easily).
They are all grown in soil-less compost to prevent diseases such as club
root being transmitted (we do not have club root on the nursery because we
always grow our brassica (cabbage family) plantlets in new, soil-less
compost).
Many of the names of the varieties we grow may be unknown to you. This
is because we mainly use market growers' varieties. These tend to give
good reliable crops that will stand well when mature (they don't have to
be picked all at once).
You will notice an absence of root vegetables; this is because they do
not transplant easily. Even minor damage to the main taproot can affect
the crop. They are better sown directly into the garden, thinning out
(discarding) unwanted seedlings.
Some vegetables can be poisonous if eaten raw (e.g. runner or climbing
French beans, etc.), never eat vegetables or vegetable plants raw
(uncooked) unless you are certain that it is safe to do so. See the Health
and Safety Notice on the Information page.
AT ONLY 94p FOR A TEN PLANT PACK:
BROCCOLI (SPROUTING).
White or purple varieties. Plant out in late summer for
winter/spring cropping.
BROCCOLI (HEADING).
These winter cauliflowers
actually crop in spring.
Plant
out in late summer.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS.
Plant out in early summer.
We grow several varieties
to
spread the planting
and cropping times.
CABBAGE (SUMMER).
We grow successive batches of both conical and ball-head
varieties, available from late spring onwards.
CABBAGE (SAVOY).

Winter cabbages with
crinkled outer-leaves.
Plant out in
the later summer months.
CABBAGE (RED).
Not many gardeners still grow red cabbage for pickling, but
have you tried it cooked in the same way as green cabbage? It looks really
revolting on the plate, but many people agree that the flavour is excellent.
Available late spring/early summer onwards.
CABBAGE (SPRING).
We grow both the traditional pointed and the new F1 hybrid,
ball varieties. Plant out in the late-summer months.
CALABRESE (GREEN SPROUTING BROCCOLI).
F1 hybrid varieties only.
Do not throw
them onto
the compost heap after
cutting the heads,
these improved varieties
will shoot and crop again. Calabrese are frost-tender so don't plant out until
all spring frosts have ended.
CAULIFLOWER.
The most temperamental of the Brassica (cabbage) family. It is
essential to keep watered in dry weather. If you have repeatedly failed with
them in the past your land may not suit their requirements, try growing
something else. Available from late spring onwards.
CELERY.
They are not plants for dry gardens or where you can't keep them
watered in hot, dry weather. Available from late spring onwards.
Self-blanching variety. They do not need to be earthed-up or grown in a
trench.
LETTUCE.
We grow successive batches of lettuce plants throughout the summer.
Cos or heading, green or red leafed.
AT ONLY 94p FOR A SIX PLANT PACK:
CLIMBING FRENCH BEANS.
Smaller pods than runner beans, this variety has novel,
red and tan, striped pods if left to ripen. They are frost-tender so don't plant
out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).
RUNNER BEANS.

Large-podded, heavy-cropping varieties. Some people grow them
just for the beauty of their scarlet flowers. They are frost-tender so don't
plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).
CHINESE CABBAGE F1 Hybrid YUKI.
With
crisp, barrel shaped heads F1 Hybrid Yuki is a great improvement on the old
varieties of Chinese cabbage.
Slow to bolt and possessing natural disease resistance these high yielding
Chinese cabbages are easy to grow. (Available Late May onwards).
Successive plantings can be used to produce heads for summer and autumn
cropping. The heads mature about 60 days after planting.
SWEET CORN.
Plant out after frosts have ended. Do not plant in rows, plant in
a square block instead. This tends to ensure better pollination (a prevailing
wind across a row could blow all the pollen away before any potential cobs could
be pollinated).
AT ONLY £1.56 FOR A SIX PLANT PACK:
ALPINE STRAWBERRY PLANTS.
They produce sweet, small-sized fruit on
mainly
runner-less plants.
Ideal for sun or light shade,
they grow well in patio pots,
but don't expect to pick too many yourselves if you have children (of any age).
AT ONLY 94p FOR A TWENTY PLANT PACK:
LEEK.
We grow several varieties
for late summer, autumn
and winter cropping.
Available late spring/early summer onwards.
You don't have to dig a trench for leeks. Use a dibber to make a 15cm (6
inches) deep hole.
Lower into the hole - holding onto the top of the plant - and crumble a
little soil into the hole.
Gently joggle the plant until you are sure that it is firmly held
and that the tops of the leaves still protrude from the hole (water in).
ONION (F1 HYBRIDS ONLY).
Not huge show onions,
just medium-sized,
market
varieties.
Fast growing, uniform and should store well.
They are often found to
be more suitable for kitchen use.
AT ONLY 55p EACH:
PEPPERS.
The variety we grow turns red when ripe;
if you want green peppers
just pick them before they ripen.
Must be grown in a greenhouse or on a deep
windowsill
(not a plant for outdoors in this district). Available late May
onwards.
TOMATO PLANTS.
We grow several varieties - indoor and outdoor
(don't plant
outside before the beginning of June),
salad, cherry or beef types
(we also grow
yellow tomatoes).
AT ONLY 94p EACH:
COURGETTE. Improved F1 hybrid varieties.
If you leave any unpicked they will
grow to the size of a marrow. The plants can only carry so much crop at once so
keep up to picking, even if you have to give them away or put them on the
compost heap. They are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts
have ended (early June).
CUCUMBER (OUTDOOR VARIETIES).
We grow a few plants for those who prefer
short, prickly-skinned fruit or
want Gherkin varieties for pickling.
They are
frost-tender so don't plant out until
all spring frosts have ended (early June).
MARROWS.
Large, green variety. Very heavy cropper. They are frost-tender so don't plant out until all spring frosts
have ended (early June).
MELON.
For greenhouses and well-built, cold frames. They are frost-tender so
don't plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).
PUMPKIN.
Always popular with the children, see who can grow the largest (use
a high nitrogen feed not a tomato fertiliser). They are frost-tender so don't
plant out until all spring frosts have ended (early June).
AT ONLY £1.56 EACH:
F1 HYBRID (ALL FEMALE) GREENHOUSE CUCUMBERS.

Unlike the other members of their family (e.g. melons, courgettes,
pumpkins and marrows), cucumbers should not be pollinated.
Cucumbers will make fruit whether pollinated or not.
If they are pollinated and set seed the result will be bitter-tasting
fruits.
The old varieties such as Telegraph produce both male and female flowers
and you have to remove the male flowers to prevent pollination.
All the varieties we sell are all-female and should not throw any male
flowers even when stressed (as can happen with some varieties).
Cucumbers must be kept in active growth at all times, they cannot stand
to be checked by cold. If they stop growing they are likely to fail.
Our varieties are low temperature tolerant, but that doesn't mean you
should let the temperature drop below 10c (50f).